This past June, I was able to make a return visit to the Province of Quebec.  One of my early RV road trips was to the Province of Quebec in 2012.  I explored the southern side of the St. Lawrence River valley and the Gaspe Peninsula.  I always wanted to return. Quebec is a unique place to visit. It’s a place to experience a different language (French), food, history, and culture.

This past fall, the Canadian Border Service removed the random Covid testing protocol for entry into Canada.  So, I planned a week-long trip for June 2023 to see 1) a bucket list destination – the National Shrine/Basilica at Sainte Anne De Beaupre, 2) travel up the north side of the St. Lawrence River to Saint Simeon, and then 3) cross the river and visit Lac Temiscouata. This post is about my trip.

Crossing the Border

It was pretty easy the last time I crossed the border into Quebec back in 2012.  I showed my US passport, answered some basic questions about my destination, and disclosed any travel goods. Less than a minute with the agent at the border and I was on my way.  This time it was different.  I got selected for a random inspection of my RV.   Also, while answering some basic questions, I truthfully acknowledged that yes at one time in my life I had been arrested.  That answer got me detained so they could do a background check to see I had a criminal record (which I don’t).

The RV inspection was pretty thorough. I had to exit the RV and wait outside while the border agents searched my vehicle. They were very nice about it and left my things as they found them. Where ever you think you could hide something in an RV that’s where they looked (in the freezer, under the sofa, under the driver and passenger’s seats, in my clothes and bedding, in the utility compartment). I also had to wait in the border crossing offices while they did a background check. I was detained for about 40 minutes and then allowed to proceed.

Afterwards, I researched to see why they may have detained me for so long. I learned that in 2015, the Canadian Border Service got access to the US FBI database. They now do regular random inspections of every few cars/trucks at the checkpoints and they also ask certain questions to test truthfulness and to see if you have a criminal record. The “Have You Ever Been Arrested?” question is one of those trigger questions. They are trying to prevent people who might cause harm to Canadian citizens from entering Canada.

Also, Quebec implemented very tough DUI laws in 2018.  A first offense DUI in Quebec can get you 10 years in prison.  And they treat any DUI offense as if it had happened in Canada.  So, if you (or anyone in your vehicle) has a single DUI conviction in the US and you paid your fine and did your time, you will most likely not be allowed into Canada.  If you lie about anything or try to hide anything at the checkpoint, you will most likely be denied entry.

It was a little stressful being searched and detained.  All the agents were very nice and professional and I respect that they were doing their jobs.  I mention all of this for the benefit of other travelers – be honest and don’t try to hide anything.

Sainte Anne De Beaupre

Now back to the main reason for why I came to Quebec.  At the small village of Sainte Anne De Beaupre, 20 miles north east of Quebec City, there’s a world famous Christian pilgrimage site – the National Shrine to Sainte Anne De Beaupre.  The current large Romanesque style church, which is the third to be built on this site, was built in 1922. It is a Minor Basilica and an active Catholic church.

Here are some facts about Sainte Anne –

• She was the mother of Mary.
• She was Jesus’s Grandmother.
• She is a canonized saint in the Catholic Church,
• She is the patron saint of Quebec.

In the early 1600’s, the first church to Sainte Anne was built on the current site.  The first healing was reported there as people prayed to Sainte Anne during the building of the church.  There are numerous crutches and other discarded items on display inside the church from people who experienced healing over the years.

Hundreds of thousands now visit the church each year to pray at the statue to Sainte Anne for intercession with healing.  Pope John Paul II and Pope Francis have both visited the site.

I came to this site, not just to see a historic and popular site, but also as a pilgrim. I came to pray, to spend time with, and experience God’s presence at this holy site.

It’s difficult to craft words to describe the inside of the church. It’s huge.  Upon entering, my eyes are drawn upwards toward the ceiling which is covered with mosaic images and iconography of saints. As I took in all the imagery, the word that kept occupying my mind was love.   Love and inspiration that the designers, tradesmen, artists, and builders must have had for God to create such a beautiful shrine to glorify God and his grandmother, Sainte Anne.

Here’s a video that shows the inside.

I was very moved being there.  When I enter certain churches (and I felt it at Sainte Anne De Beaupre), I feel that I’m crossing a threshold; leaving the imperfect world and entering a special holy and sheltered place that places me closer to God – a place where he makes his presence felt.

(I once mentioned this feeling to one of the Poor Clare Nuns at a monastery in Fort Myers Beach, FL (The San Damino Monastery). During my winter stays, I visited the chapel at the monastery on a regular basis to pray.  On one visit, I thanked one of the nuns for letting me pray in the chapel because it was a place where I felt God’s presence.  She responded with – “Of course you do, because He is here”.)

The church at Sainte Anne De Beaupre is opened daily from 8:30 am to 4:00 pm.  There’s no admittance fee.  A daily Mass is held at 11:30 am and the Holy Rosary is prayed daily at 11:00 am. I attended both, which are done in French.

I spent two days at Sainte Anne De Beaupre.  There’s a campground – Domaine Sainte Anne, right across the street from the church. The campground has no hookups but there is water and a dump station. Reservations can be made online.

Saint Simeon

After Saint Anne De Beaupre, I headed north and east on Rt 138 following the St. Lawrence River.  In Quebec, all the traffic signs are in French and all the distances and speed limits are metric.  To convert the numbers, I mentally multiply them by .6 (1 Kilometer = .62 miles) (e.g. 90 km/hr = 55 mph). Fuel is sold by cents per liter.  At the time, diesel was around 175 cents CD per liter or about $6.60 US per gallon. Gas was nearly the same.

Leaving Sainte Anne De Beaupre, Route 138 becomes hilly.  There’s not much to see except 2-3 cute small towns along the river.  Much of the land is forest with some farming.

Saint Simeon is a small village about 90 miles from Sainte Anne De Beaupre.  It is home to the ferry that crosses the St Lawrence 2-3 times daily over to Riviere Du Loup. It’s also a gateway to the Saguenay and Lac St Jean areas.

I stayed at a nice municipal campground right on the beach next to the ferry dock.  I was there for just one day, but it turned out to be a nice sunny day when I arrived.

I took the 9:30 am ferry over to Riviere Du Loop.  It’s pricey for an RV. I had to pay by the meter.  My bill was $132 US for me and the RV.  It was a rough 75 minute crossing.  My RV was in the bow and took a lot of wave spray.

Lac Temiscouata

I was hoping to do and see much here but the rain limited what I could do. I had a nice campsite in the village of Notre Dame du Lac at the Camping Marina overlooking the lake. This was another municipal campground. My cost for a full hook up site was around $80 for two nights.

There’s a nice bike path that runs thru the campground and follows the shore of Lac Temiscouata.  I was hoping to some biking but not in the rain. Across the lake (accessible by ferry) is Lac Temiscouata National Parc.  Another place I was hoping to visit but not in the rain.  Perhaps next time. Lac Temiscouata is just 30 miles from the border of northern Maine.

So, I spent most of the time in the comfort of my RV with free wifi from the campground and a heater going, writing this blog post.  I did venture out to attend Mass at the local Catholic Church and have lunch.  I also walked over to the pub at the marina and had a nice dinner.  I got to use my limited French language skills a final time ordering meals.

My stop at Lac Temiscouata concluded the Quebec portion my road trip.  I crossed back into the US at Van Buren, ME.  The crossing was uneventful. The US Border agent questions were about where I had been and he wanted to know if I was carrying and lemons, limes, or tomatoes back into the US.

I continued my road trip into Maine traveling down to the coast in Washington County.  More about that in the next post.